Crochet Lovely Lemons Baby Bib {Free Pattern}

Crochet Lovely Lemons Baby Bib {Free Pattern}
NOTE: All the decreases in this pattern are sc decreases.

Lovely Lemons Baby Bib (Lemon Peel Stitch)
You'll need a size I crochet hook and about 1.5oz of cotton worsted weight yarn in order to make this lacy-look baby bib done in the "Lemon Peel" stitch. If you're a pretty fast crocheter, you can probably whip one up in an hour or two, making this a perfect "night before the baby shower" last minute handmade baby gift. :) I like to make a burp cloth or two to match when I give this little bib, when time permits.
Guage: 7 rows = 2.5", 7 sts = 2.5"

Pattern:
Chain 20.
R1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook. Dc in same ch. Sc in next ch. *Dc in next ch, sc in next, repeat from * to last ch. Dc into that last ch, sc in same ch. (21 sts: 11 sc, 10 dc)
R2: Ch 1, turn, hdc in top of first sc of last row. Sc into top of next dc. Dc into each sc and sc into each dc across to last sc, hdc into that last sc. (21 sts: 10 sc, 9 dc, 2 hdc)
R3: Ch 1, turn, sc into first hdc of previous row. Dc into next sc. Sc in each dc and dc in each sc across to last hdc. Sc into last hdc. (21 sts: 11 sc, 10 dc)
R4-19: Repeat rows 2 & 3.
R20: Work as row 2 but mark the 7th st. (21 sts: 10 sc, 9 dc, 2 hdc - 7th stitch is marked)
...
Right side of neck, Row 1
(aka RN R1): Ch 1, turn, sc into first hdc of last row. *Dc into next sc, sc into top of next dc. Repeat from * twice more. (7 sts: 4 sc and 3 dc)
RN R2: Ch 1, turn. Decrease in tops of first 2 sts of previous row. *Dc in next sc, sc in next dc, repeat from * once more, hdc in last sc. (6 sts: 1 dec, 2 dc, 2 sc, 1 hdc)
RN R3: Ch 1, turn. Decrease in tops of first 2 sts of previous row. Sc in next dc, dc in next sc, sc in next dc, hdc in last sc. (5 sts: 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dc, 1 hdc)
RN R4: Ch 1, turn. Decrease over tops of first 2 sts of previous row. Sc in next dc, dc in next sc, sc in next dc. (4 sts: 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dc)
RN R5: Ch 1, turn. Decrease over first 2 sts of previous row. Dc in next sc, sc in next dc. (3 sts: 1 dec, 1 dc, 1 sc)
RN R6: Ch 1, turn. Sc into first sc, dc into same st. Decrease over last 2 sts. (3 sts: 1 sc, 1 dc, 1 dec)
RN R7: Ch 1, turn. Dec over first two sts, sc in next, hdc into same st.. (3 sts: 1 dec, 1 sc, 1 hdc)
RN R8: Ch 1, turn. Sc in first st, dec over last two sts. (2 sts: 1 sc, 1 dec)
RN R9: Ch 1, turn. Decrease over both sts. Tie a good knot but leave a 20" long tail.
RIGHT TIE: Cut TWO 40" long pieces of yarn, hold them together as if they were one double-thick strand, and thread it through the top of your last stitch so that 20" hangs on either side. Take hold of these and the 20" long tail from your last row, and braid them until they are the desired length (about 10 inches, give or take based on preference), securing with a knot.
...
Left side of neck, Row 1
(aka LN R1): Join with a sl st into marked stitch. Chain 1, sc into same st. *Dc into next sc, sc into top of next dc. Repeat from * twice more. (7 sts: 4 sc and 3 dc)
LN R2: Ch 1, turn. Hdc into first sc. *Sc in next dc, dc in next sc, repeat from * once more, dec over last 2 sts. (6 sts: 1 dec, 2 dc, 2 sc, 1 hdc)
LN R3: Ch 1, turn. Hdc into first st. Sc in next dc, dc in next sc, sc in next dc, dec over last 2 sts. (5 sts: 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dc, 1 hdc)
LN R4: Ch 1, turn. Sc into first st, dc, sc, dec over last 2 sts. (4 sts: 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dc)
LN R5: Ch 1, turn. Sc, dc, dec. (3 sts: 1 dec, 1 dc, 1 sc)
LN R6: Ch 1, turn. Dec over first two sts, dc & sc into last st. (3 sts: 1 sc, 1 dc, 1 dec)
LN R7: Ch 1, turn. Hdc & sc into first st, dec over last 2 sts. (3 sts: 1 dec, 1 sc, 1 hdc)
LN R8: ch 1 turn. Dec over first two sts, sc in last st. (2 sts: 1 sc, 1 dec)
LN R9: ch 1 turn. Dec over both sts. Tie a good knot but leave a 20" long tail.
LEFT TIE: Cut TWO 40" long pieces of yarn, hold them together as if they were one double-thick strand, and thread it through the top of your last stitch so that 20" hangs on either side. Take hold of these and the 20" long tail from your last row, and braid them until they are the desired length (about 10 inches, give or take based on preference), securing with a knot.
Cut off any excess yarn on the ties at least half an inch from the knots. Weave in tail at beginning if you didn't already. You can edge with sc for a "neater" look if you prefer but it looks fine without it too.

Crochet Cotton Ripple Dishcloth {Free Pattern}

Here's another dishcloth pattern I designed. I only knew how to do a ripple in double crochet stitch at the time and really wanted to make a ripple dishcloth but not to have all the "holes" double crochet stitch would leave. I didn't want my fingers sticking through the holes touching all the ickies I would be washing. Lol! So I tried and frogged and tried and frogged again until I got just the right size ripples, just the right number of them, and all in single crochet so no giant gaping holes for my fingers to slip through.



This dishcloth takes about and ounce and a half of cotton worsted weight yarn, and a G crochet hook.
CH = chain, SC = single crochet, SK = skip.

COTTON RIPPLE DISHCLOTH pattern by Jessica Mama Mirage (2010):
ROW 1: Ch 45 (multiple of 7 plus 3) loosely, sc in second ch from hook, skip 1, *sc in next 2 ch, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch, sc in next 2 ch, sk 2, repeat from * 4 times, sc in next 2 ch, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch, sc in next 2 ch, sk 1, sc in last ch, ch 1, turn.
ROW 2: Sc in first sc, sk 1, *sc in next 2 sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) around ch 1, sc in next 2 sc, sk next 2 sc, repeat from * 4 times, sc in next 2 sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) around ch 1, sc in next 2 sc, sk next sc, sc in last sc. Ch 1 & turn (omit on last row, row 25, of cloth).
ROWS 3-25: Repeat row 2 until cloth is square. Tie off.
Weave in tails.

Last time I got 2 comments asking for another pattern. I have a really cute leaf pattern and I am still undecided whether or not to bother typing it out. Unlike this ripple and the previously shared triangle, the leaf dishcloth is kind of complicated! If I get comments from 7 different people on this post before the end of January 2013, I'll share the leaf. If not, I may share it anyway and I may not. Time will tell. ;)
~*Jessica

Crochet Triangle Dishcloth {Free Pattern}

I've been meaning to post some of my crochet patterns for a while but life has been busy! :) Here's one for a triangle dishcloth in crochet. Why triangle, you may wonder? I made one on a whim once to use up a leftover ounce of cotton yarn from some other project, and discovered that a triangle dishcloth fits the shape of my hand perfectly and as such is AMAZING for wiping things down, such as the kitchen table! You know how usually you wind up kind of wrapping the dishcloth around the ends of your fingers and pinching to hold onto it? Well no more hanging onto your cloth with these triangles. As I said they just fit the shape of your hand and make a bowl of cherries out of scrubbing the kids' fingerprinty mashed potato or spaghetti sauce smears off the dining table, even after they've dried on. :)

This pattern takes approximately 1oz of worsted weight cotton yarn per dishcloth, is crochet in continuous round in single crochet, and works best if you have 2 subsequent sizes of hook like E & F or F & G or G & H. I think an F & G work best if your guage and tension are usually spot-on.

If you are using a 2oz ball of yarn such as Peaches & Creme or Creme de la Creme then you can get 2 dishcloths out of it- I would recommend starting a dishcloth at each end and crocheting 1-3 rounds on one cloth, then 1-3 rounds on the other, alternating until you run out of yarn in the middle, so that both cloths are the same size regardless of your personal hook choice or guage. A perfectly matched pair of dishcloths makes for a sweet gift.

This is an easy pattern and is written in a way that beginners will hopefully have little trouble understanding it. RND is round. SL ST is slip stitch. CH is chain. SC is single crochet. You may need to look up the magic ring if you're unsure what this means. Try YouTube for videos. Visuals make everything less confusing, IMPO!

Want to add it to your Ravelry que? http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/mirages-easy-triangle-dishcloth

EASY TRIANGLE DISHCLOTH pattern by Jessica Mama Mirage (2010):

ROUND 1: With your smaller hook, do the magic ring (you can look it up on YouTube if you're unsure what this is) and crochet 6 sc into said ring, then cinch it up tight and as you continue on in the following round, crochet over your tail so you won't have to weave it in later. Do not slip stitch, do not chain up, do not turn: this pattern is worked in continuous round.
ROUND 2: Sc in first sc of round 1, (sc, chain 1, sc) in next sc, *sc in next, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next, repeat from * once more, that was round 2. Do not slip st, do not chain up, do not turn. You will continue to work in the round continuously without chaining up or turning for the duration of this pattern.
ROUNDS 3-17: Put a stitch marker or a scrap of contrasting yarn between your last st of rnd 2 and your first st of rnd 3. CHANGE HOOKS! From here on out you will use your larger hook. Sc in top of first sc of round 2. Sc in next also. (Sc, ch 1, sc) into the first chain-1 space of the previous round. * Work 1 sc into each of next 3 stitches. (Sc, ch 1, sc) into next ch 1 space. Repeat from * once more. Sc into last st of round. Move your stitch marker/yarn scrap up to the end of this round and continue on in this manner: work 1 sc into each sc, work (sc, ch 1, sc) into each chain 1 space, move your stitch marker/scrap up with each round. Do this until you have 16 rounds. Round 3 has 3 single crochets in between each (sc, ch 1, sc) corner as described above, round 4 has 5 sc between corners, round 5 has 7 sc between corners... and henceforth you add 2 sc per side per round. So on round 6 you have 9 sc per side, and on round 16 you should have 29 sc per side of your triangle, not including the (sc, ch 1, sc) in each corner. Your final round, round 17, should have 31 sc per side, not including the (sc, ch 1, sc) in each corner.
ENDING: As if you were beginning a round 18, **sc in each of next 3 stitches. Then slip stitch in each of next 3 stitches. Tie off, remove your marker, and hide your last yarn tail.
**NOTE: Depending on how you crochet and the size you'd like your finished product, you may stop on any round before round 17, or keep going for another round or several. Wherever you end, do it as if you were beginning the next round, as detailed above. **
If your finished dishcloth is warped or lumpy looking you can put a damp cloth over it and iron it flat through the damp cloth, then straighten the edges out and leave it to cool and dry someplace with good airflow.
For gifting purposes you may like to roll them like a crescent roll and tie with a scrap of yarn, then unravel the ends of the yarn scrap for a decorative look.

A couple more pics with triangle dishcloths in them:






Did you like this pattern? Want more? Let me know which one you want me to post next! I have written up dishcloth patterns for a ripple and a leaf shape, and have contemplated copying down a pattern for a Sunflower novelty dishcloth I came up with too. :)



~*Jessica*~

My newest crochet project- Can I do it?

I confess, I have taken on yet another crochet project! It's a good one though I promise! ;) Those of you who have known me very long know I tend to take on too many projects at once. Right now I'm due in 12 days, having regular contractions for at least a couple hours a day daily since the full moon, and working on TWO baby blankets. Yes two. You see, I never finished Buggie's baby blankie before he was born. I got a little carried away and made it a wee bit big when I started and it was only about 1/3 of the way finished when he was born. Now, he DID get to use it in a way. You see, I'd wrap him in the finished end while I crocheted on the other end when he was a little bitty fellow! Lol! So he did get snuggled it alot as a newborn, but when he got too told to hold still while I crocheted the blanket got shelved. And by the time he was old enough to not need me hovering over him trying to counteract his deadly sense of adventure every blessed moment, well by then I was good and pregnant with this little bun in the oven. So now, not only do I have to finish THIS baby's blankie, which is currently about halfway or almost, BUT I also have to finish Buggie's baby blanket. I am very thankful now after the fact that I got carried away with my starting chain because now it will come out toddler sized so when I DO finish it, it can move to the toddler bed with him and he'll get lots of use out of it. Provided I DO actually ever finish it... Been working on it for over 2 years now, since we saw the hotdog on the ultrasound! So those are my two current and pressing projects and I REALLY need to get the new baby's blankie done before she's born because this time I did NOT get carried away on the size and it would fit her best as a baby and not a toddler! LOL!
So I've been trying to be so good and concentrate only on those two blankies and not add any other projects. But then I saw this:

Okay I bit. :) I clicked (and you should too if you want more info!) I signed up! You have to admit it's a great cause and I really want to help! I'm probably yet again biting off more than I can chew but I just couldn't NOT give it a try.
So here's the million dollar question; Can I finish 2 baby blankies before I give birth (remember I'm due in 12 days) and then how many hats can I make by October 15th with a newborn in my lap? ;)
If you want more info, click the button in this post. If you decide to join in I wouldn't mind if you mentioned that you found it through me. ;) And if you're not into the yarn arts or crafting for charities, perhaps you could just cheer me on, and/or pray for the project and the orphans? :)

Crafty Saturday: Chicklet's birth afghan

I have been working on more leafy dishcloths this week so nothing new to post, so I thought I'd show you an old project of mine. :) This is my Chicklet's baby afghan that I crocheted for her. I used a pattern from the Terry Kimbrough Baby Afghans pattern book - I think that's what it was called. It's a wonderful pattern book if you're looking for baby blanket crochet patterns! I highly reccomend it!
I made Chicklet's blankie out of 100% cotton and it's a good thing I did because she was so sensitive to synthetic fibers the first couple years! This is the blankie she was wrapped in in the carseat on the way HOME from her birth! Aww sweet memories!

No it's not actually yellowed or stained, it's just a pic I took a long time ago in my old dark house and it didn't come out very good quality after being lightened and transferred to a photo hosting site. :p Sorry bout that.

Crochet Lace Pattern, Wiped-out Wednesday

Don't Forget to enter for a chance to win a pair of Babylegs!

I don't think I could possibly be any more tired today. I was up LATE (early? 2:30am) last night getting the picture of the Babylegs up for the giveaway and other such fun internet doings that are easier to do when everyone is in bed. Chicket decided to get up for the day at 3am and she sleeps in our room so she kept sitting up and poking me. "Mama! Mama! Mama, Daddy is SNORING!" No kidding. Lucky Daddy... *sigh* It's now almost 2:00 in the afternoon and she hasn't taken a nap yet. I'm hoping she will soon because I need one SO BAD! Bug however is snoozing away. He skipped morning nap so he's pooped. Poor wittle fellow! I am jealous though- wish I was snoozing away.
Okay I'll quit whining about my half hour of sleep now.

I was thinking of posting the crochet pattern for the 'lace' I used on the Babylegs. Any other crochet fanatics out there? The stand-alone basic pattern is actually super duper easy. You just need to know how to make a chain, double crochet, and single crochet. Picot is explained in the pattern.

Stand-alone Lace
Steel crochet hook size 7
A few yards of cotton crochet thread size 10 or 20 in your chice of color
(Picot- ch 3, sc in 3rd ch from hook. 1 picot made.)
Row 1: Chain a chain about 1/4 inch shorter than the length you need the finished lace to be. It will get a bit longer as you work. Turn, sc in each ch to the end. Turn.
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), *work Picot, dc in next sc. Repeat from * to end of row. Tie off.
Finishing: Attach to project with tacky glue, or a stretchy sewing machine stitch like the zig-zag. Remember if you are applying it to a fabric that will be washed that cotton thread may shrink a bit in the wash, so you may wish to make the lace extra long and then gather it a bit as you sew it on so it won't pull the fabric if it shrinks in the wash.

Crocheted Into Knit Project
Steel crochet hook size 9 (crochet slightly loosely)
A few yards of cotton crochet thread size 10 or 20 in your chice of color

(Picot- ch 3, sc in 3rd ch from hook. 1 picot made.)
NOTE: The easiest fabric to crochet into is a knit fabric like the socks I used for the Babylegs. When crocheting into the edge of a fabric, it's best to zig-zag or hem the edges before adding the crochet so the edges to not unravel as you are working with them. Alternately, for knit fabrics, you may crochet into the loose loops to hold the edge from unravelling with your crochet work. You must make sure to catch every loop though or it will unravel. You may also go over the finished product where the lace is attached to the fabric using a decorative or zig-zag stitch to give the lace extra hold into the fabric and catch any loops you may have missed. These instructions are for crocheting into the raw edge of a knit fabric.

Row/Rnd 1: Tie a slip knot noose at the end of your thread. This will be your starting loop. Put hook through fabric where you want the first stitch to go. This should be a little ways into the fabric in a rib with a loose loop at the edge. Pull your slipknot loop back through the fabric and chain 3. Counts as first dc. *Work Picot, dc in next rib that has a loose loop. Repeat from * to the end and tie off and hide tails, OR repeat from * around and sl st in top of first ch 3 to join, tie off and hide tails.